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All of which makes LL Cool J's work on "NCIS: Los Angeles" (Tuesdays 9 p.m./8 Central) seem borderline miraculous. This two-season-old spinoff of CBS' "NCIS" is another comfort food show, a weekly crime series about Navy investigators putting away serial killers, nabbing terrorists and solving crimes that involve corrupt or renegade government employees. J's character, senior agent Sam Hanna, has as complicated, even tortured a back story as any of the "CSI" frontmen -- but he wears it more lightly. Although the show has gone somewhat light on details, we know Hanna grew up in a tough Brooklyn, N.Y., neighborhood, is at ease around what an old-time TV cop would call "the criminal element," and has plenty of experience as a combat veteran and undercover operative. (He served in Bosnia, Afghanistan and Iraq, among other places.)
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